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万圣节“鬼魂探访”之旅
Halloween Tours That Give You the Creeps

[2018年5月1日] 来源:纽约时报 作者:STEPHANIE ROSENBLOOM   字号 [] [] []  

AS the air grows crisp and the trees shiver away the last of their leaves, the most discerning ghost hunters head to New York and New England, where Halloween is an artful affair. Here (listed in order of how gung-ho each community is) are some of the most breathtaking places to tour “haunted” mansions and graveyards, delight in glowing jack-o’-lanterns and snuggle up to that special someone when things go bump in the night.

空气开始变得清冷,最后一片树叶也翩然飘落,眼光锐利的幽灵猎人们纷纷前往纽约和新英格兰;这些地方非常善于搞万圣节活动。下面(根据每个社区的热情程度排序)介绍了其中一些最惊险的地点,你可以前去寻访“闹鬼”的宅邸或者墓地,欣赏发光的南瓜灯,在深夜遇到鬼的时候依偎到爱人的怀里。

SALEM, MASS. Is there a more fitting place to spend Halloween than a town where at least half a dozen attractions begin with the word “witch”? In Salem, beginning in 1692, dozens of people were accused of practicing witchcraft and 19 were hanged, according to the Salem Witch Museum.

马萨诸塞州,塞勒姆(Salem, Mass.) 还有什么地方能比塞勒姆更适合过万圣节呢?这个小镇至少有6个景点的名字都以“女巫”开头。根据塞勒姆女巫博物馆的记载,从1692年开始,该镇有几十个人被指控使用巫术,其中19人被绞死。

史上著名的哈德逊河谷的“南瓜灯盛会”上展示的水下主题的“雕刻南瓜”。
史上著名的哈德逊河谷的“南瓜灯盛会”上展示的水下主题的“雕刻南瓜”。

For a tour of some of the more famous sites of murders and executions, climb aboard Salem Trolley’s Tales and Tombstones, a nearly hourlong ride at dusk during which passengers will hear of haunted hotels, ancient curses and ghost ships. Tickets: $20, $15 for 60 and older; $10 for children 6 to 14. Reservations required: (978) 744-5469; salemtrolley.com.

要想游览一些更加著名的谋杀和执行死刑的地点,可以登上“塞勒姆传说和墓石有轨电车”(Sam's Trolley's Tales and Tombstones),这趟电车在黄昏时分出发,大概历时1小时,其间乘客将听到闹鬼的旅馆、古老的咒语和鬼船的故事。票价:20美元;60岁(含)以上的人,15美元;6至14岁的小孩,10美元。需要预订:(978) 744-5469;salemtrolley.com。

But this is hardly the only way to explore the town; you can see it by boat, foot, even Segway. On the Haunted Harbor cruise by Mahi Mahi Cruises and Charters, passengers will learn about pirates, haunted lighthouses and monsters during an hour-and-a-half tour on a heated boat with a bar and grill, through October. Tickets: $25; $15 for children: (978) 825-0001; mahicruises.com. Meanwhile, Witch City Segway has Halloween tours on what it refers to as a “futuristic broomstick”: witchcitysegway.com. And Derby Square Tours offers two special walking tours in October, Witch Trial Trail and Terror Trail: derbysquaretours.com.

但这不是在该镇探险的唯一方法;你还可以乘船、步行,甚至骑摄位车(Segway)游览。在“鬼头刀鱼游艇和租船公司”(Mahi Mahi Cruises and Charters)组织的“闹鬼的海港”(Haunted Harbor)巡游中,乘客将听到海盗、闹鬼的灯塔和怪兽的故事;航行持续1个半小时,船上有酒吧和烧烤,十分热闹。该活动持续整个10月,票价是25美元;小孩是15美元:(978) 825-0001;mahicruises.com。另外,“女巫之城摄位车公司”(Witch City Segway)提供的万圣节之旅,骑的是他们所谓的“未来派的魔法扫帚”:witchcitysegway.com。“德比广场之旅”(Derby Square Tours)在十月份提供两种特别的步行游览路线:“女巫审判小径”和“恐怖小径”:derbysquaretours.com。

The House of the Seven Gables, once owned by a cousin of Nathaniel Hawthorne, whose visits to the property are said to have inspired his 1851 novel of the same name, has live performances throughout October, including one that aims to transport visitors to the witch trials. Performances last 35 minutes. Reservations recommended: (978) 744-0991; 7gables.org.

七个尖角的阁楼(The House of the Seven Gables)曾经的主人是纳撒尼尔·霍桑(Nathaniel Hawthorne)的一位表兄弟。据说霍桑1851年同名小说的灵感就是在参观了这处宅第之后产生的。整个10月,此处都有现场表演,其中一项表演意在再现女巫审判的场景,时长35分钟。建议提前预约:(978) 744-0991;7gables.org。

At the Salem Witch Museum, visitors can learn about the trials and take advantage of extended hours for “haunted happenings” (some until midnight) through October: (978) 744-1692; salemwitchmuseum.com.

在塞勒姆女巫博物馆(Salem Witch Museum),游客可以了解女巫审判的情况,并在延长的开放时间(整个10月都会延长,有时一直延长到午夜)里等着看“闹鬼”:(978) 744-1692;salemwitchmuseum.com。

On Halloween, there will be music and dancing on stages around town, and fireworks over the North River at 10 p.m. Check out more festivities, including costume parties, performances and events with self-described witches and paranormal experts, at hauntedhappenings.org, festivalofthedead.com and witchescottagesalem.com.

在万圣节当日,小镇各处的舞台会有歌舞表演,晚上10点北河(North River)上空会放烟火。在hauntedhappenings.org,festivalofthedead.com 和witchescottagesalem.com上,你可以查看更多欢庆活动,包括化妆舞会和表演,以及自称是女巫或者超自然现象专家的人举办的活动。

SLEEPY HOLLOW, N.Y. Hoping to unearth some ghosts? Then consider the Sleepy Hollow Cemetery walking tour in this picturesque Hudson River town, best known as the setting for Washington Irving’s “Legend of Sleepy Hollow.”

纽约,睡谷(Sleepy Hollow, N.Y.) 想要召唤鬼魂?那么可以考虑“睡谷墓地”(Sleepy Hollow Cemetery)徒步旅行。这个位于哈德逊河畔的风景如画的小镇,因华盛顿·欧文(Washington Irving)的《睡谷传奇》(Legend of Sleepy Hollow)而闻名。

There are daytime tours, but for an even eerier atmosphere try a two-hour after-dark lantern tour, in which participants walk more than a mile atop some of the cemetery’s best known residents, like Irving and the industrialist William A. Rockefeller Jr. Visitors will also learn about the cemetery’s art and architecture, and may even descend into a more than 100-year-old underground vault (temporarily, of course). Some tours are led by Tara Van Tassell, a descendant of the Van Tassells of “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow.” Tickets: $24.99; reservations required. For more information on this and other lantern-light walks: (914) -631-0081; sleepyhollowcemetery.org. If you want to take a self-guided tour, free cemetery maps are available on the grounds and at visitsleepyhollow.com.

徒步旅行可以在白天进行,但如果想体验更加诡异的气氛,可以试试在天黑之后,手提南瓜灯,步行两个小时,跋涉一英里多,脚下沉睡着该墓地最著名的一些居民,比如欧文和实业家小威廉姆·A·洛克菲勒(William A. Rockefeller Jr)。游客还可以了解这个墓地的艺术和建筑,甚至可以下到一个有100多年历史的地下墓穴里(当然,只是暂时的)。其中一位导游是塔拉·范·塔塞尔(Tara Van Tassell),他是《睡谷传奇》中的范·塔塞尔家族的后裔。票价:24.99美元;需要预订。想获得更多关于该徒步旅行或者其他南瓜灯旅行的信息,请查询:(914) 631-0081;sleepyhollowcemetery.org。如果你想自助游,可在现场或者在visitsleepyhollow.com网站上获得免费的墓地地图。

For another after-dark treat, check out the more than 5,000 hand-carved illuminated pumpkins at the Great Jack O’Lantern Blaze at Van Cortlandt Manor, where sound effects, lights and music set a spooky tone for visitors to wander past pumpkin ghosts and through the Tunnel O’ Pumpkin Love. Tickets: $16 ($20 on Saturdays); $12 for children 3 to 17 ($16 on Saturdays); free for children under 3 and members: hudsonvalley.org/events/blaze.

天黑之后还有一个活动,那就是范·卡兰特庄园(Van Cortlandt Manor)的“南瓜灯盛会”(Great Jack O’Lantern Blaze),里面展示了5000多个点亮的手刻南瓜灯。在游客们与南瓜魂灵周旋或者穿越南瓜爱好者隧道时,音效、灯光和音乐营造出毛骨悚然的气氛。票价:16美元(周六20美元);3至17岁的小孩12美元(周六16美元);3岁以下的小孩和会员免费:hudsonvalley.org/events/blaze。

On Oct. 26 and 27 from 7 to 11 p.m. and Oct. 28 from 7 to 10 p.m., beware the headless horseman during the Haunted Hayride that begins at the firehouse on Beekman Avenue in Sleepy Hollow. Tickets ($20; $10 for Tarrytown students) available at the Village Hall or sleepyhollowny.gov.

在10月26日和27日晚上7点到11点,10月28日晚上7点到10点,要当心“闹鬼的干草大车之旅”(Haunted Hayride)的无头马夫;该旅程始于睡谷比克曼大街的消防站。可在村公所或者sleepyhollowny.gov网站购票(20美元;塔里敦的学生10美元)。

Other events include the Legend Celebration at Washington Irving’s Sunnyside, where visitors (who are encouraged to arrive in costume) can tour the grounds where Irving lived, and Horseman’s Hollow at Philipsburg Manor, where guests can walk a frightening trail into a town “ruled by the undead, the evil, and the insane.” It is not recommended for small children or for adults who still have nightmares about Freddy Krueger: hudsonvalley.org.

其他一些活动包括“华盛顿·欧文的恩光故居传奇庆典”(Legend Celebration at Washington Irving’s Sunnyside),游客(鼓励穿着狂欢服装)可以参观欧文住过的院子;以及“菲利普斯堡庄园的骑士山谷”(Horseman’s Hollow at Philipsburg Manor),游客可以走过一条恐怖的小径,到达“由不死族、恶魔和疯子掌管的”小镇。小孩以及仍然为弗雷迪·克鲁格(Freddy Krueger)而做噩梦的成人不宜前往:hudsonvalley.org。

NEWPORT, R.I. At Belcourt Castle, completed in 1894, visitors will find 13th-century European stained glass, 17th- to 20th-century paintings, a gold coronation coach and — on certain nights in October — talk of ghosts. During late-night ghost tours of the house, Harle Tinney, the owner, will talk about ghosts she claims to have encountered while living there for more than half a century. Tickets: $25; $15 for students 18 and younger and adults older than 65. Reservations required; children must be 8 or older: (401) 846-0669; belcourtcastle.com.

罗得岛,新港(Newport, R.I) 贝尔科特城堡(Belcourt Castle)完工于1894年,游客们在这里会看到13世纪的欧洲彩色玻璃,17世纪至20世纪的绘画和金色的加冕马车;在十月的某些夜晚,还能听到鬼魂们的交谈。城堡的主人哈尔·迪尼(Harle Tinney)声称自己在此居住的半个多世纪里遇到过鬼,在午夜的鬼魂探访中,她将会讲述她的故事。票价:25美元;18岁(含)以下的学生和65岁以上的老人15美元。需要预订;儿童需在8岁(含)以上:(401) 846-0669;belcourtcastle.com。

PORTSMOUTH, N.H. On the Legends, Ghosts and Graves tour from New England Curiosities, visitors swing by the most haunted spots in town, including the state’s oldest burial ground (1600s), Point of Graves. Oct. 26 at 6:30 and 9:30 p.m. Tickets: $20; $10 for children under 12. Reservations recommended.

新罕布什尔,朴茨茅斯(Portsmouth, N.H.) “新英格兰奇闻协会”(New England Curiosities)组织的“传说、鬼怪和墓地”(New England Curiosities)之旅,带领游客们在该城闹鬼最严重的地点游荡,包括该州最古老的墓地(17世纪)——墓地之点(Point of Graves)。10月26日晚上6:30到9:30。票价:20美元;12岁以下的孩子10美元。建议预订。

The group also offers a Haunted Pubs tour, a nod to the city’s beer- and ale-making history. But don’t let the name fool you: attendees will not drink their way through this two-hour walk but rather will visit historic taverns that some say are haunted. After the tour, guests can join their guide for spirits of a different sort. Reservations are required. Oct. 21 at 3 p.m.; Nov. 7 at 7 p.m. Tickets are $20 (not including drinks). For more information on both tours: (603) 343-7977; newenglandcuriosities.com.

该组织还提供“闹鬼的酒吧”(Haunted Pubs)之旅,这是向该市的啤酒和麦芽酒酿造历史致敬。但是不要被旅行的名字骗了:参加者不会在两个小时的徒步旅行中一直喝酒,而是参观那些历史悠久的、据说闹鬼的酒馆。旅行结束后,客人可以和导游一起喝点别的酒。要求预订。10月21日下午3点;11月7日晚上7点。票价20美元(不含酒水)。想获得上述两个旅行的更多信息,请查询:(603) 343-7977;newenglandcuriosities.com。

LODGING PACKAGES (GHOSTS INCLUDED)

住宿套餐(含鬼魂) Forget chocolates on the pillow. Hotels throughout the country are offering supernatural amenities.

别再想枕头上放着巧克力了。全国的旅馆都在提供超自然的设施。

In Vermont, the Department of Tourism and Marketing is promoting “haunted highways” lodging packages, like one at the Green Mountain Inn in Stowe, where rates begin at $96 a night based on double occupancy, through Nov. 30. Legend has it that during winter storms, the ghost of Boots Berry, who saved a girl stuck on the inn’s roof before falling to his death during a snowstorm, can be heard tap dancing on the hotel’s third floor. (If you go, you can also visit Gold Brook Bridge, rumored to be haunted by a ghost named Emily who died there after being abandoned by her fiancé on her wedding day.) For more hotels and their ghosts: vermontvacation.com.

在佛蒙特州,旅游和市场部正在推广“闹鬼的高速公路”住宿套餐活动,比如在斯托的“绿山旅馆”(Green Mountain Inn),双人房的起价是一晚96美元,活动一直持续到11月30日。传说,在一场暴风雪中,布茨·贝瑞(Boots Berry)为了救一位卡在旅馆屋顶的女孩,自己摔死了;所以在冬天下暴风雪的时候,能听到他的鬼魂在三楼跳踢踏舞。(如果你去那里的话,还可以去参观金溪桥[Gold Brook Bridge],据说一位名叫艾米丽[Emily]的姑娘在结婚当天被未婚夫抛弃,所以从桥上跳河自杀,她的鬼魂常来这里游荡。)想获得更多旅馆及其鬼魂的信息,请查询:vermontvacation.com。

For bed-and-breakfasts, try using bnbfinder.com/hauntedinns to unearth places like the 1843 Battery Carriage House Inn in Charleston, S.C., where guests in Room 10 supposedly share quarters with the ghost of a college student who once lived there and leapt to his death from the roof. Rates from $150, including possible shutter-rattling and apparitions.

想获得更多提供住宿和早餐的旅馆的信息,试试查询bnbfinder.com/hauntedinns,发掘一些闹鬼的旅馆,比如南卡罗来纳州查尔斯顿的“1843白特里·卡瑞吉家庭旅馆”(1843 Battery Carriage House Inn);有一位大学生在该旅馆的10号房间住过,后来从屋顶上跳楼自杀了,所以住这个房间的客人恐怕要和他的鬼魂共享这个房间了。房价150美元起,包括可能吱吱嘎嘎作响的百叶窗和幽灵。

And at historichotels.org, you’ll find theme packages like the “ghost tour” at the Morrison-Clark Historic Inn in Washington, D.C., a 19th-century Victorian mansion-turned-hotel on the National Register of Historic Places. Rates from $115 a night, including two passes to explore the paranormal side of the capital during a nighttime walk with DC Ghost Tours.

在historichotels.org网站上,你会找到一些主题套餐,比如华盛顿特区“莫里森-克拉克历史旅馆”(Morrison-Clark Historic Inn)的“寻鬼之旅”,该旅馆的前身是一座19世纪的维多利亚式宅邸,名列“国家史迹名录”(National Register of Historic Places)。每晚的房价是115美元起,包括两张晚间“特区寻鬼之旅”的通行证,可以探访首都不同寻常的一面。

本文最初发表于2012年10月17日。

翻译:王艳

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