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玉林为什么用荔枝搭配狗肉?
Dog Meat and Lychees: A Pairing Meant to Make You Feel Warm Inside

[2018年5月5日] 来源:纽约时报 作者:AMY QIN   字号 [] [] []  

In the latest episode, women held captive in a wintry shelter are sexually brutalized. In the deeply controversial episode that preceded it, a scheming noblewoman in an incestuous relationship with her brother is forced to have sex with him, despite her cries of no. The annual Yulin Lychee and Dog Meat Festival, which will open this week coinciding with the summer solstice, has drawn domestic and international condemnation from the animal-rights crowd. But one aspect of the festival gets little attention: Why lychees with dog meat?

玉林将在本周迎来一年一度的夏至荔枝狗肉节。狗肉节遭到了国内外动物权益保护群体的谴责,但它的其中一个方面却鲜有人关注:为什么用荔枝搭配狗肉?

There are hints in traditional Chinese medicine, which takes as holistic view of food. Ingredients are seen not just as a sum of carbohydrates, protein, fat and vitamins. They are believed to have yin and yang properties that contribute to the body’s internal balance.

对食物持有一种整体性观念的中医提供了一些解释。食材不仅仅被视作碳水化合物、蛋白质、脂肪和维生素的集合体。它们还被认为具有影响人体内部平衡的阴阳属性。

According to traditional Chinese medicine, some foods, like lamb and onion, have warm energy. Others, like rabbit and asparagus, are said to have cool energy. Both dog meat and lychees are seen as warming.

中医认为,一些食物,如羊肉和洋葱,是温的。还有一些食物,如兔肉和芦笋,则被认为是凉的。狗肉和荔枝都被认为是温的。

To the uninitiated, the logic may seem mysterious. But many Chinese adhere to these principles, and it is not uncommon to hear a friend say he or she is “shanghuole,” or has too much internal fire. In traditional Chinese medicine, excessive internal heat is tied to symptoms like cold sores and dehydration, which can be treated by eating “cooling” foods like cucumber or watermelon.

对不了解情况的人而言,上述逻辑可能显得颇为神秘。但很多中国人都会遵循这些原则。我们时常会听到一个朋友说自己“上火了”,即内火太大。从中医的角度看,上火是和唇疱疹、脱水等症状联系在一起的,可以通过吃黄瓜、西瓜等“凉性”食物来治疗。

In parts of China, dog meat is typically consumed in the winter because it is seen as warming and restorative.

在中国的一些地方,人们一般到了冬天才吃狗肉,因为将其视为有助于恢复元气的温性食物。

But in the southern Chinese city of Yulin, some say eating dog meat and drinking lychee liquor on the summer solstice is an old tradition. Lychees are locally grown in the subtropical clime, and the concept of “yire gongre,” or using heat to attack heat, is also prevalent.

但在南方城市玉林,一些人说,在夏至那天吃狗肉和喝荔枝酒属于古老习俗。荔枝是产自当地的亚热带水果;“以热攻热”的理念在那里很流行。

Critics say the festival itself may have been a marketing ploy started around 2009 to increase sales of dog meat and lychees.

批评人士称,狗肉节本身或许是为了增加狗肉和荔枝的销量而在2009年前后出炉的营销伎俩。

翻译:李琼

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